Never did I experience this so feelingly as in the perambulation Iam now describing.On coming to Paris, I had confined myself to ideas which related to the situation I expected to occupy there.I had rushed into the career I was about to run, and should have completed it with tolerable eclat, but it was not that my heart adhered to.Some real beings obscured my imagined ones- Colonel Godard and his nephew could not keep pace with a hero of my disposition.Thank Heaven, I was soon delivered from all these obstacles, and could enter at pleasure into the wilderness of chimeras, for that alone remained before me, and I wandered in it so completely that I several times lost my way;but this was no misfortune, I would not have shortened it, for, feeling with regret, as I approached Lyons, that I must again return to the material world, I should have been glad never to have arrived there.
One day, among others, having purposely gone out of my way to take a nearer view of a spot that appeared delightful, I was so charmed with it, and wandered round it so often, that at length I completely lost myself, and after several hours' useless walking, weary, fainting with hunger and thirst, I entered a peasant's hut, which had not indeed a very promising appearance, but was the only one I could discover near me.I thought it was here, as at Geneva, or in Switzerland, where the inhabitants, living at ease, have it in their power to exercise hospitality.I entreated the countryman to give me some dinner, offering to pay for it: on which he presented me with some skimmed milk and coarse barley-bread, saying it was all he had.Idrank the milk with pleasure, and ate the bread, chaff and all; but it was not very restorative to a man sinking with fatigue.The countryman judged the truth of my story by my appetite, and presently after (having said that he plainly saw I was an honest, good-natured young man,* and did not come to betray him) opened a trap door by the side of his kitchen, went down, and returned with a good brown loaf of pure wheat, the remains of a ham, and a bottle of wine: he then prepared a good thick omelet, and I made such a dinner as none but a walking traveler ever enjoyed.
* At that time my features did not resemble later portraits.
When I again offered to pay, his inquietude and fears returned; he not only would have no money, but refused it with the most evident emotion; and what made this scene more amusing, I could not imagine the motive of his fear.At length, he pronounced tremblingly those terrible words, "Commissioners," and "Cellar-rats," which he explained by giving me to understand that he concealed his wine because of the excise, and his bread on account of the tax imposed on it; adding, he should be an undone man, if it was suspected he was not almost perishing with want.What he said to me on this subject (of which Ihad not the smallest idea) made an impression on my mind that can never be effaced, sowing seeds of that inextinguishable hatred which has since grown up in my heart against the vexations these unhappy people suffer, and against their oppressors.This man, though in easy circumstances, dare not eat the bread gained by the sweat of his brow, and could only escape destruction by exhibiting an outward appearance of misery!- I left his cottage with as much indignation as concern, deploring the fate of those beautiful countries, where nature has been prodigal of her gifts, only that they may become the prey of barbarous exactors.
The incident which I have just related, is the only one I have a distinct remembrance of during this journey: I recollect, indeed, that on approaching Lyons, I wished to prolong it by going to see the banks of the Lignon; for among the romances I had read with my father, Astrea was not forgotten, and returned more frequently to my thoughts than any other.Stopping for some refreshment (while chatting with my hostess), I inquired the way to Forez, and was informed that country was an excellent place for mechanics, as there were many forges, and much iron work done there.This eulogium instantly calmed my romantic curiosity, for I felt no inclination to seek Dianas and Sylvanders among a generation of blacksmiths.The good woman who encouraged me with this piece of information certainly thought I was a journeyman locksmith.
I had some view in going to Lyons: on my arrival, I went to the Chasattes, to see Mademoiselle du Chatelet, a friend of Madam de Warrens, for whom I had brought a letter when I came there with M.
le Maitre, so that it was an acquaintance already formed.Mademoiselle du Chatelet informed me her friend had passed through Lyons, but could not tell whether she had gone on to Piedmont, being uncertain at her departure whether it would not be necessary to stop in Savoy; but if Ichoose, she would immediately write for information, and thought my best plan would be to remain at Lyons till she received it.I accepted this offer, but did not tell Mademoiselle du Chatelet how much I was pressed for an answer and that my exhausted purse would not permit me to wait long.It was not an appearance of coolness that withheld me, on the contrary, I was very kindly received, treated on the footing of equality, and this took from me the resolution of explaining my circumstances, for I could not bear to descend from a companion to a miserable beggar.