WE took passage in one of the fast boats of the St.Louis and St.Paul Packet Company,and started up the river.
When I,as a boy,first saw the mouth of the Missouri River,it was twenty-two or twenty-three miles above St.Louis,according to the estimate of pilots;the wear and tear of the banks have moved it down eight miles since then;and the pilots say that within five years the river will cut through and move the mouth down five miles more,which will bring it within ten miles of St.Louis.
About nightfall we passed the large and flourishing town of Alton,Illinois;and before daylight next morning the town of Louisiana,Missouri,a sleepy village in my day,but a brisk railway center now;however,all the towns out there are railway centers now.I could not clearly recognize the place.
This seemed odd to me,for when I retired from the rebel army in '61I retired upon Louisiana in good order;at least in good enough order for a person who had not yet learned how to retreat according to the rules of war,and had to trust to native genius.
It seemed to me that for a first attempt at a retreat it was not badly done.I had done no advancing in all that campaign that was at all equal to it.
There was a railway bridge across the river here well sprinkled with glowing lights,and a very beautiful sight it was.
At seven in the morning we reached Hannibal,Missouri,where my boyhood was spent.I had had a glimpse of it fifteen years ago,and another glimpse six years earlier,but both were so brief that they hardly counted.
The only notion of the town that remained in my mind was the memory of it as I had known it when I first quitted it twenty-nine years ago.
That picture of it was still as clear and vivid to me as a photograph.
I stepped ashore with the feeling of one who returns out of a dead-and-gone generation.I had a sort of realizing sense of what the Bastille prisoners must have felt when they used to come out and look upon Paris after years of captivity,and note how curiously the familiar and the strange were mixed together before them.
I saw the new houses--saw them plainly enough--but they did not affect the older picture in my mind,for through their solid bricks and mortar I saw the vanished houses,which had formerly stood there,with perfect distinctness.
It was Sunday morning,and everybody was abed yet.So I passed through the vacant streets,still seeing the town as it was,and not as it is,and recognizing and metaphorically shaking hands with a hundred familiar objects which no longer exist;and finally climbed Holiday's Hill to get a comprehensive view.
The whole town lay spread out below me then,and I could mark and fix every locality,every detail.Naturally,I was a good deal moved.
I said,'Many of the people I once knew in this tranquil refuge of my childhood are now in heaven;some,I trust,are in the other place.'
The things about me and before me made me feel like a boy again--convinced me that I was a boy again,and that I had simply been dreaming an unusually long dream;but my reflections spoiled all that;for they forced me to say,'I see fifty old houses down yonder,into each of which I could enter and find either a man or a woman who was a baby or unborn when I noticed those houses last,or a grandmother who was a plump young bride at that time.'
From this vantage ground the extensive view up and down the river,and wide over the wooded expanses of Illinois,is very beautiful--one of the most beautiful on the Mississippi,I think;which is a hazardous remark to make,for the eight hundred miles of river between St.Louis and St.Paul afford an unbroken succession of lovely pictures.It may be that my affection for the one in question biases my judgment in its favor;I cannot say as to that.
No matter,it was satisfyingly beautiful to me,and it had this advantage over all the other friends whom I was about to greet again:it had suffered no change;it was as young and fresh and comely and gracious as ever it had been;whereas,the faces of the others would be old,and scarred with the campaigns of life,and marked with their griefs and defeats,and would give me no upliftings of spirit.
An old gentleman,out on an early morning walk,came along,and we discussed the weather,and then drifted into other matters.I could not remember his face.He said he had been living here twenty-eight years.
So he had come after my time,and I had never seen him before.
I asked him various questions;first about a mate of mine in Sunday school--what became of him?