Unfortunately， no good view of the fall could now be obtained， owing to the quantity of wood and high grass that lined the margins of the precipices. There are two falls， the lower being the most lofty； and it is possible， by long circuit， to descend into the valley and see them from below. Were the best points of view searched for and rendered accessible， these falls would probably be found to be the finest in the Archipelago. The chasm seems to be of great depth， probably 500 or 600 feet. Unfortunately， I had no time to explore this valley， as I was anxious to devote every fine day to increasing my hitherto scanty collections.
Just opposite my abode in Rurukan was the schoolhouse. The schoolmaster was a native， educated by the Missionary at Tomohón.
School was held every morning for about three hours， and twice a week in the evening there was catechising and preaching. There was also a service on Sunday morning. The children were all taught in Malay， and I often heard them repeating the multiplication-table， up to twenty times twenty， very glibly. They always wound up with singing， and it was very pleasing to hear many of our old psalm-tunes in these remote mountains， sung with Malay words. Singing is one of the real blessings which Missionaries introduce among savage nations， whose native chants are almost always monotonous and melancholy.
On catechising evenings the schoolmaster was a great man， preaching and teaching for three hours at a stretch much in the style of an English ranter. This was pretty cold work for his auditors， however warming to himself； and I am inclined to think that these native teachers， having acquired facility of speaking and an endless supply of religious platitudes to talk about， ride their hobby rather hard， without much consideration for their flock. The Missionaries， however， have much to be proud of in this country. They have assisted the Government in changing a savage into a civilized community in a wonderfully short space of time. Forty years ago the country was a wilderness， the people naked savages， garnishing their rude houses with human heads. Now it is a garden， worthy of its sweet native name of "Minahasa."Good roads and paths traverse it in every direction； some of the finest coffee plantations in the world surround the villages， interspersed with extensive rice-fields more than sufficient for the support of the population.
The people are now the most industrious， peaceable， and civilized in the whole Archipelago. They are the best clothed， the best housed， the best fed， and the best educated； and they have made some progress towards a higher social state. I believe there is no example elsewhere of such striking results being produced in so short a time--results which are entirely due to the system of government now adopted by the Dutch in their Eastern possessions.
The system is one which may be called a "paternal despotism." Now we Englishmen do not like despotism--we hate the name and the thing， and we would rather see people ignorant， lazy， and vicious， than use any but moral force to make them wise， industrious， and good. And we are right when we are dealing with men of our own race， and of similar ideas and equal capacities with ourselves. Example and precept， the force of public opinion， and the slow， but sure spread of education， will do every thing in time， without engendering any of those bitter feelings， or producing any of that servility， hypocrisy， and dependence， which are the sure results of despotic government. But what should we think of a man who should advocate these principles of perfect freedom in a family or a school？ We should say that he was applying a good， general principle to a case in which the conditions rendered it inapplicable--the case in which the governed are in an admitted state of mental inferiority to those who govern them， and are unable to decide what is best for their permanent welfare. Children must be subjected to some degree of authority， and guidance； and if properly managed they will cheerfully submit to it， because they know their own inferiority， and believe their elders are acting solely for their good. They learn many things the use of which they cannot comprehend， and which they would never learn without some moral and social， if not physical， pressure. Habits of order， of industry， of cleanliness， of respect and obedience， are inculcated by similar means.
Children would never grow up into well-behaved and well-educated men， if the same absolute freedom of action that is allowed to men were allowed to them. Ruder the best aspect of education， children are subjected to a mild despotism for the good of themselves and of society； and their confidence in the wisdom and goodness of those who ordain and apply this despotism， neutralizes the bad passions and degrading feelings， which under less favourable conditions are its general results.