书城外语Zhongshan Road 中山路:追寻近代中国的现代化脚印
6939500000007

第7章 Prologue(7)

The Zhongshan Hall was formally known as the Hall of Prayer—5-bay wide and 3-bay deep, occupying an area of 950.4 sq m. It served as a shelter from rain and wind when emperors made offerings. The Hall of Prayer is the largest, most magnificent piece of architecture along the central line of the altar, and it is the oldest remaining Ming Dynasty structure. After the 1925 passing of Sun Yat-sen, his coffin was temporarily kept in this place. Following the public ceremony, it was moved, again temporarily, to the Temple of Azure Clouds in Xiangshan Park.

In 2002, the department concerned began renovations of the Zhongshan Hall, and on November 12, the 136th anniversary of Sun Yat-sen's birthday, it was reopened to the public. The reopening also saw the installment of a white marble statue of a seated Sun Yat-sen. The statue is 2.1 meters tall, the base and platform 1.5 meters high. Inscribed on the statue are the famous words of Sun Yat-sen— "the world for all" .

Outside the Zhongshan Hall, the park is home to another historical treasure—a bronze statue of Sun Yat-sen. Among the forest of trees north of the lane of "Peace Preservation" lies the bronze statue of Sun Yat-sen. 3.4 meters tall and 1.8 tons in weight, atop a black stone platform—inscribed on the front is Deng Xiaoping's own handwriting: "Long live the great revolutionary Sun Yat-sen."

This statue was proposed in March 1983 by some 54 members of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference, and after approval was constructed in November 1986 as part of the 120th anniversary celebrations of his birthday.

Thinking simply about the year of 1983 and 1986, I find myself lost in an array of thoughts. The 1980s was a time where not only was there reflection, but also hope; not only was there reason, but also compassion; not only were there ideals, but also the boldness to act; lost, but with the bravery to explore and discover. This truly was a golden age for China. The Chinese people stood as one, not only initiating the "opening up" reforms, but also seeing through their development.

The next day, I arrived in Tianjin.

Upon my arrival, I went straight to my hotel on Zhongshan Road—from dusk till dawn, I was on the lookout. This road is famous due to the nearby Zhongshan Park, where Sun Yat-sen once gave a public speech.

I took a taxi to Harbin Road, Heping District, in search of the Fozhao Hotel where Sun Yat-sen once stayed on his 1894 visit to Prime Minister Li Hongzhang. Along the way, I noticed many construction sites, hidden by surrounding fences. Taxi drivers in Tianjin are well versed in Chinese crosstalk, spending the entire journey talking to their passenger. Today's topic was, of course, the football matches that would be held in Tianjin as part of the Olympics—something this driver was filled with excitement about—but I was simply excited about getting closer and closer to the footprints left behind by Sun Yat-sen. Nearby Harbin Road, suddenly the driver stopped—he was lost! The road had made an abrupt transition to a one-way street, and ahead was yet another fenced off construction site. The driver explained to me that this was just how things were in Tianjin. Demolishing here and constructing there, not even locals can find their way around the mess that the roads have become. I got out of the car, making foot for Harbin Road, in search of that hotel Sun Yat-sen once stayed at…

The doubts and worries of Tianjin's roads today are a sacrifice for a modern city's more prosperous future. You can feel their hope and pride implied in their speech.

But 100 years ago—even centuries ago—we as a nation were faced with the puzzle and confusion of our development road, the debate and exploration of our future, and the desire and practice to make us strong.